New Money has always relished one-upping the aesthetic trappings of Old Money - just think of the Romans copy-catting everything Greek. So it's not surprising that Forever 21, the trendy but cheap-chic outfitter, would girl-power itself into One Powell, a San Francisco icon of 20th Century grandeur, a fitting status symbol to crown the company's stupendous success.

A Clash of Eras

One Powell is Old San Francisco Money. The 84-year-old building was formerly the lavish headquarters for A.P. Gianni's Bank of Italy (precursor to today's Bank of America), designed by Bliss & Faville in the neo-Renaissance idiom. Forever 21's choice of this location for its fourth flagship is imbued with ironic appropriateness: The building hails from an era when San Francisco's own turn-of-the century Medicis - Gold Rush miners and railroad millionaires - wanted their city to say it had arrived and could afford architecture that aped and exaggerated that of Old World Europe.

Moving into One Powell is also an in-your-face to the local heavyweight across the street, The Gap. And the $20 million renovation of the extravagant historic building certainly raises the class quotient of a discount retail company that is typically found in generic, if high-end, mall spaces.

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The Forever 21 Journey

Forever 21 was founded in Los Angeles in 1984 by Do Won (Don) and Jin Sook Chang, only three years after they immigrated here from South Korea. At 21, it is coming off a 2004 in which it reported $640 million in sales and anticipates approaching $1 billion in 2005 - along with more than 30 new stores per year. It doesn't advertise, depending largely on its merchandise, locations, and word-of-mouth to establish its self-proclaimed position as even more of-the-moment than H&M. Since they arrived from South Korea broke, the Changs feel that stylishness should be an inalienable right for anyone, and they set their profit margins much lower than other retailers (price tags average $15 and rarely break $40; solidly within reach of a teen babysitter).

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Merchandise is constantly changing and moving around the store. Any week, up to 200 new fads - from microminiskirts to T's to embellished denim to ponchos - go on the racks. Because Forever 21 procures a substantial amount of its merchandise from its L.A. headquarters, it can deliver the latest must-have in 45 days. And since the mix of merchandise changes by the day, the addicted are incentivized to return frequently - whatever is here today is probably gone tomorrow.

To check out all the jeans, shoppers must wander through the entire interior, perhaps infuriating the efficiency-minded but clearly appealing to anyone from tweens to 40-somethings who shop for sport. The stores are always in high-traffic areas, be it a regional mall or a tourist-magnet spot. One Powell, for example, is at a major intersection with Market Street where the cable car turns around.

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The Forever 21 Experience

Designers from Gensler (San Francisco) and Forever 21 amplified the space's funky feminine side à la Paris Hilton. One of the nicest compliments we got,” says Maureen Boyer, Gensler project manager, “was from the developer, Chris Meany, who said, 'I was most fearful of how you were going to treat Forever 21's very modern vocabulary but you've made the whole interior pop in a fun way I totally believe!'”

Sass, sparkle, graphics, and gloss are the dominant notes of this makeover, a collaboration between Gensler project designer Alison Carr and Forever 21's in-house design team. Whimsical lighting effects tip off passersby that hipsters have moved in. Pink fluorescents outline the arches of the windows, and the most dramatic features are the eight 8-foot-tall, 6-foot-in-diameter chrome and cut-crystal custom chandeliers. Antique-style chandeliers had been a common feature in their stores, but not on this Versailles-Hall-of-Mirrors scale that dwarf visitors with their ballroom regality.

The Future of Forever 21

As of the moment, Don and Jin Chang deny any rumors of a public offering, saying they don't need the money. Perhaps because of their devout Christianity, as represented by John 3:16 printed on the bottom of their shopping bags, the couple doesn't believe in debt. This year, they bought the Gadzooks chain out of bankruptcy, plan on opening 50-odd stores of their new accessories store chain “For Love 21,” and start offering menswear.

At the center of the Korean flag is the yin and yang - opposite energies in the universe - of Far Eastern philosophy. Similarly, funky Forever 21 and classical One Powell represent the yin and yang of aesthetic tension, the old and the new, the architectural embodiment of the American Dream. Forever 21 received permission to install 5 1/2-foot stainless steel letters in the arches, dramatically illuminated so that the whole building becomes a de facto billboard.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Where was Forever 21 founded?

A: Forever 21 was founded in Los Angeles in 1984 by Do Won (Don) and Jin Sook Chang.

Q: How often does Forever 21 change its merchandise?

A: Forever 21 constantly changes and moves around its merchandise. Any week, up to 200 new fads go on the racks.

Q: Does Forever 21 have plans for expansion?

A: Yes, Forever 21 anticipates approaching $1 billion in sales in 2005 and plans to open more than 30 new stores per year.

Q: What is the average price range for Forever 21 products?

A: Forever 21 sets its profit margins much lower than other retailers, with price tags averaging $15 and rarely breaking $40.

Q: Does Forever 21 advertise?

A: Forever 21 doesn't advertise, depending largely on its merchandise, locations, and word-of-mouth to establish its position in the market.

Q: What is the design aesthetic of Forever 21 stores?

A: Forever 21 stores have a funky feminine design aesthetic, with whimsical lighting effects and glamorous elements like custom chandeliers.

Q: Does Forever 21 plan to offer menswear?

A: Yes, Forever 21 has plans to start offering menswear and expand its product offerings.

Remember, Forever 21 is not just a clothing retailer - it's a fashion revolution that combines the old and the new, bringing affordable style to everyone.